Forbes Interviews Ueli Steck

It isn't often that a mountaineer gets mainstream press from a source like Forbes, but then again, not every mountaineer is Ueli Steck. The magazine recently conducted a nice interview with the "Swiss Machine," which you can read in its entirety here.

In the interview, Ueli – who is one of the 2015 National Geographic Adventurers of the Year – discusses his admiration for Reinhold Messner, how he compartmentalizes fear on his climbs, and his now legendary solo-summit of Annapurna. He also talks about his approach to speed-climbing in the Alps – comparing those efforts to a game – and his thoughts on the events that went down on Everest this past spring, including the use of helicopters to reach Camp 2.

Perhaps the most interesting part of the interview is in Ueli's discussion of his post-Annapurna plans. He says that immediately following that climb, he felt no motivations what so ever, and he didn't even do much climbing or training last winter at all. He felt like he had achieved the ultimate climb he had been searching for, he was left rudderless afterwards, searching for a new challenge. Fortunately he seems to have found one, although he doesn't say exactly what that challenge will be. It will involve Everest however, although we'll have to be patient to see what he has planned.

As one of the highest profile mountaineers in the world, Ueli always seems to be working on some interesting projects. He has been rather quiet for awhile now, so I suspect he's been working out the logistics of his next big expedition. Perhaps he'll be heading back to the Himalaya in the spring. Considering the events that took place on Everest in 2013 when he, Simone Moro, and Jonathan Griffith got into a very public brawl with the Sherpas, it would be good to see him go back. At the time, a lot of harsh words were said, but it seems that the hard feelings have mellowed some.

To read more of Ueli's thoughts on these topics, and others, click here.

Winter Climbs 2014-2015: K2 Permit Issues Resolved, Three Teams Head to Nanga Parbat

With the winter climbing season now just a few days away from officially beginning, things are really starting to get interesting. It now appears that we will have a team on K2 after all, and no less than three squads are headed to Nanga Parbat. Meanwhile, in Alaska, the weather is still dictating the start of the action.

We'll start with an update on K2 today since things have started to improve there. Yesterday I posted the news that Denis Urubko, Adam Bilecki, and Alex Txikon had been denied their climbing permit by the Chinese, just as they were preparing to depart for the start of the climb. Reading Denis' Facebook page, it was clear that he was dismayed over the news, and looking for ways to continue with an expedition that has been planned for months. Fortunately today there is good news for the trio, as the Chinese officials have reissued the permit, although it does involve a two week delay in the start of the climb. This will allow the climbers to remain home for the holidays, and will only minimally alter their schedule. There is no word yet on when they will now depart for China. 

Meanwhile, there are three teams that will now be headed for Nanga Parbat, including a Russian squad that includes Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval which will depart for Pakistan on December 22, and an Iranian team consisting of Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmoud Hashemi, who will start their climb in early January. 

Polish climber Tomak Mackiewicz is already in Pakistan, where he as been acclimatizing in the Rupal Valley. Mankiewicz has already knocked off a couple of 5000 meter (16,400 ft) peaks, and will be heading to Base Camp in time for Christmas. He'll be joined in BC by Elisabeth Revol and Daniele Nardi, who will bring a film crew along with them. While the trio will share space, Tomak hopes to climb solo to the summit of Nanga. 

There has been no news yet out of Lonnie Dupre, who is in Talkeetna, Alaska awaiting the start of his January expedition to Denali. Poor weather has delayed his flight out to the mountain, although he remains unconcerned at this point, as he doesn't intend to start the climb until January 1 anyway. For now, he sits and waits for things to improve so he begin his fourth attempt at the highest mountain in North America during the coldest, harshest, darkest season of all. 

Finally, lets not forget about Simone Moro. The Italian is also cooking something up for the winter, but he has yet to reveal his plans. We will probably learn more about what he has in store after the holidays as well. Knowing Simone, it should be something very interesting. 

The pieces are now falling into place for the start of the winter season. Things should really start to pick up beginning next week.  

Video: Mountain Biking Iceland

We all know Iceland is a fantastic adventure travel destination, but it turns out it has some epic mountain biking trails as well. In this video. Kyle Jameson and friends head to Iceland for some freeriding opportunities, and find plenty of great trails, surrounding by breathtaking scenery, to pedal. I can't think of a better way to explore this country than on the back of a bike, and this five-minute clip is likely to convince you of the same. Sit back and enjoy. Mountain biking doesn't get much better than this.

Video: Katabatic - Episode 4: The First Ascent of Bertha's Tower in Antarctica

If you've been waiting patiently for the fourth episode in EpicTV's Katabatic series, your wait is finally over. The latest video can be found below, and it features explorers Mike Libecki, Freddie Wilkinson, Cory Richards and Keith Ladzinski as they attempt the first ascent of Bertha's Tower in Antarctica. This is challenging climbing in one of the most remote settings on the planet, and if you've watched the previous episodes of the series, you know how far the team has come just to reach this point. The Katabatic series is modern exploration and adventure at its finest, and should not be missed by anyone who reads this blog.

Gear Closet: Armpocket Flash Smartphone Armband for Runners

Still looking for a last minute gift for the runner in your life? Than you may want to consider the new Flash armband from Armpocket, a protective case designed for larger smartphones that comes with a couple of nice extra features that are sure to be appreciated both by you, and the person who uses the armband.

As a daily runner, I like to listen to music and podcasts throughout my workouts. That means taking my smartphone or mp3 player with me when I hit the road. The problem is, I recently purchased a new iPhone 6, which is much larger than its predecessors. Finding an armband case for the phone has been a bit of a struggle, as there aren't many designed specifically for Apple's new devices. I know that there will soon be plenty of options to choose from as more companies release new options, but at the moment there are few good choices for the iPhone 6 or it's even bigger sibling, the 6 Plus.

The Armpocket Flash was built with larger smartphones in mind however, and it has absolutely no problems accommodating the new iPhone, even if it wasn't made specifically for that device. In fact, there is so much room inside that it actually doesn't fit my iPhone quite as snugly as I'd like. For the most part, this isn't a big issue, but  trying to use the phone through the touch-sensitive protective covering can sometimes be an exercise in futility. Since the touch screen window doesn't fit tightly agains the phone, it doesn't register taps and swipes as cleanly as I'd like. On more than one occasion, I've actually had to take the phone out of the case to get it to do what I wanted. That defeats the purpose of using a case in the first place, and was a source of frustration while testing this product. My advice is to set up your music and fitness apps ahead of time, and slide your phone back into the case before you get moving.


That one annoyance aside, I actually found that I really like the Flash. It is obviously a very large armband, but considering the size of popular smartphones these days, it has to be. Despite its size however, the Flash fits very comfortably on my arm, and stays locked in place even on more vigorous runs. While you will be well aware of the large armband you're wearing, it really doesn't impact your workout in any way.

As you would expect from a product like this one, it features a nice audio access port for headphones which can accommodate nearly any device that you put inside. The armband is also made out of sweat and water resistant materials that ensure your device stays well protected from moisture at all times as well. Interior compartments allow you to carry a key, ID, and other small items with you when you hit the trail, and the memory foam cushioning molds the case to your arm quite nicely.

Of course, a lot of these features are just what you'd expect out of a good armband built for frequent runners. But the Flash has another feature that helps to set it apart from the competition, while also providing a bit of extra safety if you find yourself out after dark. Armpocket has integrated a set of red LED lights into the side of the case which aid in visibility out on the road. These lights have three modes that allow them to stay on constantly, or blink at two different speeds. Blinking red lights on a dark street will certainly catch the attention of drivers, helping to make them more aware that you are passing by, something that I'm sure we can all appreciate.

The addition of the LED lights to the Flash means that this product is not machine washable. If you get as sweaty as I do when running in the warmer months, that could be a potential problem. Immersing the armband in water will probably kill the circuits that operate the light, so you'll have to be careful when cleaning this product by hand.

The Armpocket Flash feels incredibly solid and durable in your hand, and it seems like a product that will last for a long time. I've been using it for several weeks, and it it still looks like it came right out of the package. It also does a great job of protecting its expensive cargo too, as my iPhone 6 has always come out of the case clean and dry, without an ounce of moisture seeping into the interior.

With a price tag of $49.95, the Flash is competitively priced with similar product, while also incorporating the LED lighting system. This makes it a very good product for the avid runner who will appreciate everything the case brings to the table. If you're in the market for an armband running case designed for larger smartphone, this is a very good option. While I wish that it fit my iPhone 6 a bit more snugly, I truly appreciate the extra storage and the LED lights that provide extra visibility on evening runs. I think the runner on your holiday shopping list will agree.

Winter Climbs 2014-2015: Chinese Deny Urubko and Company Climbing Permit for K2

The winter climbing season is set to officially get underway in just a few days, and as I write this, the teams that are planning major expeditions this year are busy putting the finishing touches on their plans. But one squad received bad news yesterday when they learned that the Chinese have denied them a permit to climb on K2 on the eve of their departure. Now, they are left wondering what they can do to salvage an expedition they have been planning for months.

One of the most interesting expeditions that was set to take place this winter was the attempt to complete the first ascent of K2 from the North Side of the mountain. The very experienced team of Denis Urubko, Adam Bilecki, and Alex Txikon were preparing to depart for China this week with the hopes that they could be in Base Camp shortly after the official start of winter. But yesterday Denis posted an update to his Facebook page sharing the news that they had been denied their permit, and as you can imagine, that was a devastating blow.

With no permit, it is difficult to say what the team will do now. They still have a few days before their flight to try to sort through the bureaucracy that prevented them from getting the permit in the first place, but it is hard to know why the Chinese denied their request to climb from the North Side. Perhaps the expedition can still be salvaged provided the communications from Chinese government is forthcoming with their demands.

The other alternative would be to attempt to jump to the Pakistani side of the mountain, although that doesn't seem likely either. This entire expedition hinged on a specific route that Denis had planned from the North Side. The small team was hoping to climb along a new route that would potentially shield them from some of the worst weather that K2 will throw at them in the weeks ahead. The trio of climbers was not training or preparing for the more exposed route along the "normal" path to the summit in Pakistan, which of course has not yielded much success during the winter in the past.

For now, we'll have to just wait to see what will happen. Clearly the team is heartbroken by this news, but hopefully they'll still be able to get something organized for this winter. Time is running short however, and the Chinese bureaucrats are not well known for being flexible. I'll post an update as soon as we know more.

Meanwhile, elsewhere teams are preparing to travel to Nanga Parbat for the first winter ascent of that mountain as well. Expect updates soon. And of course, Lonnie Dupre is already in Alaska, and waiting for the weather to clear so he can travel to Denali in preparation for his attempt at a January ascent of that mountain. The season is just about to really get going, so expect more updates soon.

Antarctica 2014: Teams Progressing Towards the Pole

Earlier in the week I posted an update on the progress of Frédérick Dion, who had just completed his expedition to the Pole of Inaccessibility in Antarctica. While there isn't much new to report on his part, the other teams out on the ice are continuing to make progress, despite difficult conditions. So, while we wait to see what Fréd's next move will be, here are some updates on the other explorers traveling across the frozen continent at the moment.

It feels like kite-skier Faysal Hanneche has had to deal with the worst weather of anyone who is currently in the Antarctic. He has constantly had to battle whiteout conditions on his way to the South Pole, and today was no different. He reports that another storm rolled through his area, cutting visibility dramatically, and making it incredibly difficult just to see the contours of the ground. Fortunately, he wasn't dealing with any sastrugi at this point, and the higher winds allowed him to cover 53 km (33 miles), despite the challenging conditions. He still has a long way to go to reach the Pole however, as his current position puts him 1843 km (1145 miles) from that point. Considering he spent a couple of days tent-bound earlier in the week due to storms, I'm sure he's happy to be making any progress at this point.

Meanwhile, the team consisting of Are Johnson, and Stéphanie and Jérémie Gicquel continues to speed right along. After 33 days out on the ice, they are now just 194 km (120 miles) from the South Pole, as they continue to knock off about 25 km (15.5 miles) per day. If hey stay on their current pace, that would put them at 90ºS sometime around Christmas Day. We'll have to see if they make it to the Pole in time to celebrate the holiday, but they are covering solid distances on a daily basis, despite high winds and incredibly cold temperatures.


Solo-skier Newall Hunter is experiencing the ups and downs of skiing in the Antarctic as well. Yesterday, he skied for more than 8 hours in an almost complete whiteout. It was so bad that he could barely see the tips of his skis as he moved over difficult ground. But as soon as he stopped for the evening and made camp, the sun came out, and the weather was as clear as could be. He's now been out on the ice for 22 days, and has roughly 400 km (248 miles) to go before he wraps his journey. So far, he seems in good spirits and fine health.

There hasn't been many detailed updates on the progress of Paula Reid, just an occasional brief note and the ability to track her progress. On Monday of this week, her team reached Thiels Corner, a supply depot where they were able to pick up extra food and fuel. Everything seems to be going according to plan thus far, with several more weeks to go until they reach the Pole.

Finally, Dutch adventurer Manon Ossevoort is on her way back to the Antarctic coast. After wrapping up her expedition to the South Pole by Massey Ferguson tractor last week, she's finding it much easier going to drive back in the opposite direction. As of today, she and her team have just 1092 km (678 miles) before they are completely done. Currently they are covering approximately 300 km (186 miles) per day, which means they should be back to their starting point at the Novo station by this weekend. If the weather holds, and they have a bit of luck on their side, they just might make it home for Christmas.

That's all for today. More Antarctic updates as the news warrants.